Who doesn’t dream of that covetable bright and blemish free skin? When skin is fresh and glowing it can make us feel like a million dollars and a decade younger but achieving a perfected canvas is no easy feat especially when its battling daily environmental aggressors, humidity and dreaded old age! It is easy to blame the outside world for our flawed complexions – fluctuating weather, pollution, stress, blue light (I’ll come on to that later), hormones – they all have a lot to answer for - AND yet would you believe that actually one of the biggest culprits of a flawed complexion falls a little closer to home – it’s time to talk dead skin cells!
Dead skin refers to the dead skin cells that our bodies are always shedding and replacing with new cells. Our bodies shed between 30,000 and 40,000 skin cells per day. These cells are called ‘keratinocytes’ and are composed of the fibrous protein keratin. They are formed at the base of the epidermis, and gradually (over about 30 days) move up through the skin until they reach the outer surface, where they die, forming what is known as the "stratum corneum" - around 15-20 layers of dead cells. Eventually, these cells break away and fall off the skin, allowing new cells to push up from beneath. This is the natural life cycle of the skin. The trouble is as we age the natural exfoliation process or cell turnover begins to slow down and may even stop altogether – enter an accumulation of dead skin cells that suddenly assemble on the top of your skin like a ‘sit-in protest.’ These dead skin cells are naked to the eye, but boy do they impact how your complexion looks and feels! Dull, lacklustre, dry, and rough to touch, exacerbated lines and wrinkles and an uneven skin tone are just some of the distinguishing tell-tale signs that your skin is having a hard time exfoliating itself! Time to give those dead cells a little nudge!
Busy lives can entice even the most committed beauty lovers to skimp on their daily routine and though most of us know how important it is to cleanse and moisturise, exfoliation (aka the removal of dead skin cells) is one of those steps that can be easily skipped or just considered something one purely experiences in professional beauty salon. But if you want to achieve that ‘Hollywood Complexion’ then exfoliation is the holy grail of a smoother, clear, and brighter skin that can take years off you not to mention amp up your skin’s ability to absorb other products in which you have invested.
Exfoliation comes down to two choices – there’s physical exfoliants which work by mechanically sloughing off the dead cells using granules and then there’s chemical exfoliants which use gentle acids to dissolve the glue that holds the dead cells onto the skin allowing them to gently fall away. Ask any skincare expert out there and we will ALL agree physical exfoliants are a thing of the past and inherently bad as the particles can cause micro-tears on the skin surface which over time weakens the protective barrier (plus no-one wants to feel like they are sandpapering their skin)! Thankfully, facial exfoliators have come a long way since the scratchy nutshell scrubs of the noughties and the newest generation of chemical exfoliants lets you achieve clear, smooth skin without rubbing it raw.
Hearing that acids are good for your skin may sound a little odd, but they are definitely something you will want to get your hands on if you want to ramp up your skincare regime. Despite their scientific names most acids are derived from sources commonly in nature and they are BIG news on the beauty scene. There are three main categories of chemical exfoliants – AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s – all of these are acids, but they differ in terms of penetrative ability and gentleness.
AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water soluble acids that works on the skin’s surface sloughing away dead skin cells by loosening the glue-like bonds between cells to reveal a brighter and healthier skin underneath. AHA’s also boost cellular turnover whilst encouraging the production of new collagen.
BHA’s (Beta Hydroxy Acids) on the other hand are oil-soluble which means they have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin and not only benefit skin texture but can unclog pores and control sebum production. They are what I call anti-acne heroes as they not only exfoliate the top layer of skin but help clear away blemishes at the same time so perfect for all skin types and ages.
PHA’s (Poly Hydroxy Acids) are a new generation of exfoliating acids that work similarly to AHA’s (I like to think of them as the cousins of AHA’s) but are even more gentle on the skin. The beauty of the naturally humectant properties of PHA’s is that they have a larger molecular structure than AHA’s and work exclusively in the upper layers improving your skin’s ability to retain moisture whilst promising an enriching and sensitive friendly exfoliating moment.
2022 sees Gatineau celebrating a monumental 90 years of brand heritage which is an incredible triumph in its own right. Renowned for their pioneering and ground-breaking formulations it should come as no surprise that Gatineau’s assiduous scientists are kicking off this commemorative year with a brand-new launch! Introducing Exfoliating PHA + BHA Glow Tonique, the newest member of our exfoliating family, and a leave on toner which is gentle enough to use daily yet potent enough to resurface the skin! But this is so much more than just a toner, this is, what I deem, a solution to ALL your skincare concerns and a beauty staple that will really restore skin to its former glory.
Fuelled with a blend of acids this supercharged toner combines intelligent exfoliation with an all-encompassing dewy lightweight fluid. Boasting an impressive combination of 4% PHA and 0.5% BHA these acids work in harmony to reduce cohesion between dead, dulling cells triggering skin’s natural desquamation process making it an ideal recipe for surface-level and deep exfoliation to visibly smooth the surface texture whilst granting a plethora of other skin-loving benefits too. What is not to love?
For a start, this toner is a dream come true for visible pores that seem to poke out on every occasion as the presence of BHA’s from Salicylic Acid help to decongest and tone for a practically poreless-looking complexion. And if you were already up against congestion and blemishes, chances are the last year hasn't been kind to your skin and so while Salicylic Acid works hard to flush out excess oil and clarify pores, intelligent PHA’s work in the uppermost layers of the skin operating as a mighty moisture magnet to encourage water retention whilst lending a velvety smoothness to your face. And it certainly doesn’t disappoint on the radiance front, as this multitasking toner promises a bright, even glow for those battling tired, dull, and stressed-out complexions.
From a hearty hiking glow, to exuding positive ‘vibes’ Glow Tonique will elevate your complexion to dizzy heights and with the addition of Oxygeskin, a plant active derived from the Garden Nasturtium Flower, (easily distinguished for its exquisite orange flowers) your skin will be revived of vital oxygen just like a gust of fresh air. Oxygeskin targets environmentally induced skin stressors induced from concentrated Blue Light which is emitted not only from the sun but from digital devices too. Blue light (also referred to as HEV Light or High Energy Visible Light) poses potential skin harm as it induces oxidative stress which, over time can lead to unwanted changes in the skin from pigmentation to premature ageing. With many of us spend an average of four and a half hours staring at our computer screens and smartphones on a daily basis we are all getting significantly more Blue Light exposure than ever before so we could all use a little Oxygeskin to beat the ‘screen blues’!
The perfect way to deliver long-lasting moisture and replenishment without overburdening the skin; this formula fuses Hyaluronic Acid with Jojoba and Sunflower Oil and promises hydration and replenishment without heaviness. Expect fine lines to be plumped, dry patches to be smoothed away and the complexion calm and supple. Expect a major case of baby face!
For skin that is giving you grief Exfoliating PHA+BHA Glow Tonique will whip it into shape, so you look enduringly luminous. A testament to everything Gatineau stands-for – exquisite to look at, a pleasure to use and immediately impactful - – this is definitely going to be your new daily ‘glow to’!
Lucy x